May 2008 Wine Newsletter and Wine Newsletter Archives
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Dear Wine Lover,
I've just returned from an exciting visit to Argentina where I ate lots of fabulous beef, experienced the sultry tango dance, survived several wild Buenos Aires taxi rides and, most importantly discovered a wealth of wonderful new wines.
As the world's 5th largest wine producer, Argentina has over three thousand wineries, many of which are producing products worthy of international export. Until the last couple of decades the best you could say was that the country produced a lot of wine, but not much good wine. That all changed as the political and economic situation stabilized and encouraged investment in new equipment and vineyards plus the importation of technical experts from Europe and the US.
Many of these new vineyards were planted at higher elevations where low overnight temperatures are ideal for the production of deep-flavored grapes. Plus there is an absence of plant pests. Today, Argentina shares the international wine spotlight as its products are increasingly being discovered around the globe.
For my taste, Argentina's best white wine is from the Torrontes grape which thrives in the northern region of Salta at high altitudes. It's flavorful with enough acity to complement seafood and lighter fare.
Argentina's best red, and the grape that put the country on the international wine map, is the opulent Malbec, widely planted in the Mendoza region. I very much enjoy Malbecs due to their unique, crisp, flavorful taste, which is unlike any other red grape. Take a sip and close your eyes as its unique flavors provide a refreshing sense of another place. Another solid red grape is the Bonarda, Argentina's most widely planted red wine grape and one you'll be seeing more of in restaurants and shops.
In the months to come, we'll be making available some of the discoveries I made on my trip. In the meantime, I hope you'll enjoy our latest newsletter, filled with tips and insights on wine.
Cheers!

John Davis
Founder & Chairman
"Wine remains a simple thing, a marriage of pleasure" - Andre Tchelistcheff American winemaker
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This month's featured varietal: Sangiovese (San-gio-vese)
Sangiovese is the primary grape used in Northern Italy in the region of Tuscany to make Chianti and also for Brunello di Montalcino - where it is known as Sangiovese Grosso. It is also widely grown in Emilia Romagna and Umbria as well.
This wine grape is experiencing increased interest and plantings around the world, but especially in California. Here Sangiovese produces wines that are spicy, with good acid levels, smooth texture and medium body - wines that pair well with many foods. In the right climates and with controlled yields, Sangiovese can be made into wellstructured and full-bodied wines. It can easily be blended with other grapes for good results. In Italy's Tuscan region it is blended with Cabernet Sauvignon to produce a class of wines now known as the "Super Tuscans". This experimentation is going on in California as well with a number of red varieties.
Food choices are abundant. Of course grilled beef, wild boar, and a number of tomatobased dishes are naturals. Roasted or grilled summer vegetables dressed with extra virgin olive oil are simply delicious. And don't forget the aged Parmigiano Reggiano.
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This Bordeaux classic is like "silk in a glass"
Its deep, dark color whispers mystery and complexity, as do aromas of blackberry, red currant, plum, tobacco and spice. Then, when you sip this connoisseurquality wine, you’ll celebrate its velvety texture and long, glorious finish.
Chateau du Perier Medoc partners with lamb, brie or camembert cheese, duck, roast meat, grilled dishes or even tofu.
This top-shelf blend was matured for 12-16 months in oak barrels at the Saintout family’s winery just outside the picturesque French village of St. Laurent de Medoc. It is now available to you at an extraordinary Wine Insiders price.
Winemaking – Bordeaux is one of the most important wine producing regions in the world. One third of the good quality wine in France comes from this region.
Wine Production – Bordeaux is 57 appellations, about 7,000 wine-producing châteaux, and 13,000 wine growers. The large diversity of Bordeaux suggests an equal diversity of soil.
Wine Grapes – Most of the grapes grown in the Bordeaux region are for red wines, including Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc which have vigor, tannins and good preservation qualities, and Merlot which offers softness and suppleness. Merlot is the most planted grape in Bordeaux.
2005 Chateau du Perier Medoc (Bordeaux) France Merlot/Cabernet Franc
The Médoc is situated north of the town of Bordeaux, on the left bank of the Gironde. Médoc is divided in two parts, the Haut-Médoc in the south, near the town, and the north part traditionally called Médoc.
Wines from Médoc are red. They are delicate, medium colored, fine and elegant. These wines are tannic when young, harmonious and splendid when matured.
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Featured Wine Insider winemaker of the month: Bruno Saintout
The Saintout family has been nurturing the region's vines for generations. Owners of Chateau Moulin de la Bridane for three centuries, they also have another estate Chateau du Perier, a Bourgeious of Saint-Julien created at the end of the 19th century by Count Henri-du-Perier de Larsan, Member of Parliament for the Medoc.
It was Pierre Saintout who really developed this small 7-hectare estate nestled to the southwest of the village of Saint Laurent de Medoc, building a winery and new vat house when he purchased it.
His descendant, Bruno Santout has worked to enhance the high reputation of the estate and to prepare it for the future. Meticulous vineyard growing techniques, sorting of the harvest and careful maturing for several months in oak barrels, of which one-third new each year, have all contributed to placing his wine among the leading products of Crus Bourgeois.
His know-how and effort have been rewarded: In the last 7 years, Chateau du Perier has won 5 gold medals, 1 silver and 1 bronze. It is regularly featured in the Hachette Wine Guide.
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Featured Recipe: Pasta with Italian Sausage and Mushroom Sauce
Ingredients:
- 1 tbsp olive oil, or as needed
- 2 large cloves garlic, minced
- 1 green pepper, seeded, cored, coarsely chopped
- 3/4 lb fresh mixed mushrooms, sliced
- 4 pre-cooked mild or spicy Italian sausages, about 4 ounces each, sliced crosswise in 1/2-inch slices
- 1 tbsp + 1 tsp chopped fresh oregano
- 1/3 cup Sangiovese
- 3 tbsp chopped fresh plum tomatoes
- Freshly grated black pepper
- 1/3 cup chopped fresh parsley
- Cooked rigatoni for 4
Preparation:
Pour oil into a medium nonstick skillet over moderate heat; sauté garlic until softened, about 4 minutes; transfer to dish and reserve. Sauté green pepper until softened, 4 to 5 minutes; transfer to dish with garlic. Sauté mushrooms until softened, about 3 minutes; transfer to dish with pepper and garlic. Brown sausage slices, about 5 minutes. Drain excess fat.
Return garlic, green pepper and mushrooms to pan with sausage. Add oregano, Sangiovese and chopped tomatoes; bring to simmer, cook and stir 4–5 minutes. Season to taste with black pepper. When ready to serve, pour sauce over cooked rigatoni and toss well in a large serving bowl. Sprinkle with parsley.
Makes 4 servings
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Key Wine Terms PART 2
Legs: The viscous rivulets that run down the side of the glass after swirling or sipping, a mingling of glycerin and alcohol.
Noble rot: The benevolent form of botrytis oak, the most common sort of wood used for barrels. Usually either soft, sweetish American oak or tauter, more savoury French oak.
Oenology: The science of winemaking, practised by a (usually qualified) oenologist.
Oxidation: Potentially serious calamity that can strike grapes, grape juice and wine if they are overexposed to oxygen, making them go brown (like a cut apple) and taste flat.
Phylloxera: Fatal vine pest which chews vine roots. The only remedy is to replant on phylloxera-resistant rootstocks.
Pruning: Arguably the most important operation of the vineyard year in terms of wine quality. During winter the vine is cut back leaving a specific number of buds responsible for producing the next year's crop. Although many other factors come into play, low-yielding vines in general tend to produce more concentrated wine.
Racking: The operation of transferring wine from one container (typically a barrel) to another, leaving behind the lees. It can usefully expose the wine to oxygen and avoid reduction.
Residual sugar: The amount of unfermented sugar left in a wine after fermentation is complete, usually measured in grams per litre (g/l) or per cent. A residual sugar level of less than 2 g/l (0.02 per cent) is imperceptible to most palates. Although acidity counterbalances residual sugar, most wines with 25 g/l (2.5 per cent) residual sugar taste distinctly sweet.
Skin: Very important part of the grape which contains most flavour compounds, pigments, and tannins - all highly desirable, not to say essential, for red wines but a more debatable ingredient in the white winemaking process.
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Great Wine Regions : Argentina
Argentina is one of the world's top five largest wine producing nations. As with Chile, the Andes is the backbone that supports the wine industry.
In the rain shadow of those mountains, Argentina is for the most part an arid landscape, but like Chile it benefits from a supply of irrigating water off the Andes. Unlike Chile, however, the generally warmer inland region can support vine growing down the length of the country. In the north, the vineyards lie at the same latitude as Morocco; in the south, vineyards share latitude with New Zealand. One of the keys to growing quality wine grapes here is altitude, with vineyards planted at between 2,000 and 3,000 feet to exploit cooler temperatures.
DEMARCATED WINE REGIONS
Mendoza - This is Argentina's powerhouse and center of quality accounting for over 80% of total wine production. Producers like Luigi Bosca, Etchart, Finca Flichman, Bodegas Lurton, Norton, Catena and Weinert make fine Cabernet, Merlot and Chardonnay with increasingly impressive Syrahs and Malbecs. Many have been subject to foreign investment from top European houses. Some superb Malbecs are being made in the subregion of Luján de Cuyo, from producers like Fabre Montmayou. Tupungato is a new quality subregion, largely developed by the giant Peñaflor winery their premium Trapiche label.
Salta - Sitting in the very far north of the country, Salta is a region of generally high quality with fine Cabernets Sauvignons and, especially Torrontés in the Cafayate sub-region. Etchart has a winery here, but other notable producers are Finca Colomé and Michel Torino.
Rio Negro - This region lies at the southern end of wine production, in the fringes of Patagonia. Rio Negro is earmarked by many as one to watch, not only for cool-climate varieties like Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir, but high quality sparkling wines, often made in association with top Champagne houses.
San Juan and La Rioja - These longstanding regions still produce plenty of wine, but as yet mostly of mediocre quality from uninspiring grapes, and for purely local consumption.
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The Anatomy of a Wine Label
More people choose wines by their labels than are willing to admit. Novices reach for pretty pictures; snobs demand famous names. In fact, a wine label reveals a great deal about the flavors in the bottle. You can begin your tasting even before you've pulled the cork.
Savvy wine lovers can decipher what the law says, and what the producers want to say. Spend some time studying labels before you buy, and you'll increase your chances of finding a wine to suit your tastes.
Although each country differs on what information is required by law to be included on a wine label, every label gives some clues to the wine inside the bottle. Knowing about the type of wine, producer, vintage and price indicated on a label can help you discover before you pop the cork what you're about to drink. Remember to turn the bottle to review the back labe - you may be surprised at the richness of the information provided.
Before you delve into the specifics of a wine label, here are a few confusing terms to dismiss:
"Supérieur" does not necessarily refer to superior wine. The French term "supérieur" and its Italian equivalent merely indicate that the wine has a slightly higher alcohol content.
The word "Reserve" is often misleading. In some countries it refers to wines that have been matured in oak for longer than standard wines. In other countries it means nothing.
Ignore generalisations such as "classic," "limited release," or "special." They are simply marketing phrases to make the wine seem more unique.
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