Fine Wine Adventures

January is Zinfandel Month in San Francisco with this year’s 13th Annual Zinfandel Advocates & Producers (ZAP) tasting to be held at Fort Mason in San Francisco on January 23, 2004. Approximately 300 Zinfandel wineries from seven California growing regions playing host to members of ZAP and the public, pouring 2002-vintage barrel samples and new releases; tasters receive their own loaf of bread as they enter. For more information, please visit their website at www.zinfandel.org.

This Month's Wines....

Syrah
by Sharon Rosenbaum, Senior Wine Buyer

The Syrah (sear-ah) grape now accounts for about 194,000 acres worldwide. Of that total, 57% is in France and another third in Australia where they call it “Shiraz”. In California, where there are now almost 11,000 acres, Syrah has been an incredible success story. In the early ‘90s there were less than 500 acres of this premium varietal, so you can see what great strides Syrah has recently made in the Golden State!

What makes California such a great home for Syrah is the state’s Mediterranean climate – a perfect environment for this French Rhône variety. California’s winemakers have substantially shortened the learning curve with this grape. Many of the wines they are producing can stand up to the best that France has to offer. Grape vine age is the big factor here: obviously most of the Syrah vineyards are about 10 years old now and we are beginning to see great advances in quality for the wines.

Syrah shows many facets: look for black pepper and cassis aromas and sometimes a very rustic flavor overtone the French call “animale”. California Syrahs go very well with fuller flavored dishes: stews, roasts, game dishes and rich, full-flavored cheeses.

Burke Cellars Syrah
Vintage: 2002
Region: California
Total Acid: .63 g/l
Alcohol: 13%
Residual Sugar: .4
Cellaring: 3-4 year
per 6 pack: $47.34
Item #: MREH
per case: $94.68 now $85.21 (10% case discount)
Item #: MREF
Panel’s Notes: Burke Syrah is a deep youthful color with soft tannins and a lengthy finish. There is a hint of cinnamon from partial barrel aging.

Winery Background: Burke is produced by the 3rd generation of a family that continues to employ traditional techniques to preserve the grape’s vibrant fruit and rich flavors. It is made in the true “American” style, offering Syrah as a stand-alone variety, rather than as part of a blend.

Food: Enjoy today with roast veal, beef stews and aged cow’s milk cheeses, cheddar or dry Jack.

Hoffman Hills Vintners Syrah

Vintage: 2000
Region: California
Total Acid: .62 g/l
Alcohol: 13%
Residual Sugar: 0
Cellaring: 1-2 years
per 6 pack: $47.94
Item #: MRFH
per case: $95.88 now $86.29 (10% case discount)
Item #: MRFF

Panel’s Notes: Syrah is made in a variety of styles. This wine was inspired by the Australian model, which adds a touch of Cabernet Sauvignon to the savory, fruity blend.

Winery Background: Grapes from two fifteen- year old vineyards contribute distinctly different characteristics to the wine. Warm climate fruit offers flavors of wild blackberry and pepper and cool Monterey grapes offer spices and herbs. This adds structure and balance to the intense fruit, tangy acidity and modest tannins.

Food: Ready to drink now, this wine will complement grilled meats and creamy cheeses.

Camille Stagg is a food, wine and travel journalist and author. Her latest book is "The Eclectic Gourmet Guide to Chicago" (Menasha Ridge Press). She was food editor of both the Chicago Sun-Times and Cuisine magazine. 

Mushroom Sauerbraten

Ingredients

• 1- 6 lb boneless beef rump or round roast
• 3/4 cup red wine vinegar
• 2 cups Syrah + 2 cups water
• 2 large onions, sliced
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• 1 tsp whole peppercorns
• 2 tsp salt
• 2 bay leaves
• 1/4 lb butter
• 1/3 cup brown sugar, firmly packed
• 3 tbsp flour
• 8 oz fresh mushrooms, sliced

Preparation

Place meat in non-reactive bowl. Combine vinegar, wine, water, onions, garlic, peppercorns, salt and bay leaves in medium saucepan. Bring to boil. Pour over meat; cool. Cover and marinate in refrigerator 2 to 3 days, turning twice daily.

Remove meat from marinade; pat dry with paper towels. Brown meat on all sides in deep kettle. Add marinade. Cover and cook 3 to 31/2 hours, until meat is tender, turning occasionally. Remove meat to heated platter; keep warm.

Strain marinade. Melt butter in kettle or saucepan; add brown sugar and stir until dissolved. Blend in flour. Gradually stir in marinade. Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, until slightly thickened. Add sliced mushrooms, stir and heat. Transfer roast to platter; slice and serve with spaetzle and gravy.

• Makes 10 servings •

Quote:

Robert Louis Stevenson
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