Too Hot! - Too Cold!

It remains a fact that in the U.S. many of us serve and drink our wines at the wrong temperatures - the whites too cold and the reds, way too warm. Why we drink our whites "too cold" may stem, in part, from our custom of enjoying iced teas and over-refrigerated sodas and waters. In many foreign wine-producing countries, the high cost of refrigeration keeps its use at a minimum.

Many wine producers feel their white wines taste best at a cellar temperature of 55°F where the flavors are not hidden and the wine's balance is maintained. This is easy to do if you have a nice deep cellar that maintains 55° year round, but what about the high-rise apartment dwellers? What about houses with no cellar?

One solution is to put your white wine into the refrigerator for half an hour to an hour before serving it. This will lower the wine's temperature about 10 to 15 degrees or so, which will be pretty close to ideal. To keep it at this temperature while you are dining, you can use an ice bucket with half water and half ice. Just move the bottle in and out of the bucket to keep the temperature close to 55°F.

Now, let's get cool with our red wines. A fair question to ask is - "why would anyone want to serve too-warm red wines." And the answer is - wine experts have been telling us for hundreds of years to serve red wines at room temperature. Great advice back in the 1800s, when there was no central heating. Rooms were always a bit chilly probably around 55-65° - ideal red wine temperature. Back then when a red wine was needed, it was brought up from the 55° cellar and allowed to "warm up" for a few hours to 60 - 65° or so, and was then ready to serve. Apparently, the experts weren't aware of the coming evolution in home heating.

What is so bad about drinking red wines too warm? The balance and flavor of the wine become coarse. The wine's alcohol as well as the tannins become more obvious as it warms even further. All of this disturbs the wine's harmony. The refreshment value of the wines is also diminished, as the textural interplay between the hot food and the cool beverage is lost.

OK, so from now on - cool the reds a bit and don't freeze the whites!

This Month's Wines....

Pinot Gris (Grigio)

by Sharon Rosenbaum, Senior Wine Buyer

Pinot Gris, or as the Italians name it – Pinot Grigio, is considered a white grape, though its skin at harvest is really a greyish-pink color, hence the name. As such, the grape has more aroma and flavor but lower natural acidity than its cousin, Pinot Blanc. Thus a Pinot Gris will show more fruit and be rounder, more flavorful and match with more complex foods.

Over 1000 acres of Pinot Gris are cultivated in California. They make great aperitifs and are perfect for grilled picnic foods and pizza. The wines have an exciting spicy quality and acidity in the mouth. They are lovely with salads, appetizers and simply prepared fish and shellfish as well. California Pinot Gris wines are usually vinified without oak aging, adding to the refreshment factor.

Youthful Pinot Gris wines have the scents and full flavors of rich peaches, pears and apricots. As the wines age, they take on a light, smoky bouquet with buttery flavors.

2000 Meisonnier Estate California

The 2000 Meisonnier Estate Pinot Gris is crafted in the classic French Alsatian style - fruity and rich in color, aroma and flavor with just the right note of acidity. This wine offers a floral tinged perfume. The naturally brisk yet tame acidity provides a framework in which to showcase the ripe tropical fruit and melon flavors. Partial barrel aging enhances the soft, round texture and adds length to the smooth finish. Overall, a flavorful and beautifully balanced wine that is completely enjoyable now and over the next year. This wine would be lovely with a wide variety of dishes, including highly flavored, Chinese spiced shrimp or grilled chicken with a tangy citrus/ chili dipping sauce.

2000 Rosabella Vintners California

A farming and grapegrowing family who planted some of the earliest Pinot Grigio vineyards in California, produced this 2000 Rosabella Pinot Grigio, (the Italian name for the French grape Pinot Gris) in the crisp, fruity Italian style. Grapes were selected from several vineyard sites that typify the regions of Northern Italy known for Pinot Grigio. The wine was cold fermented in stainless steel tanks to preserve the natural fruity character of the grape. It is filled with ripe fruit aromas and flavors including apple and pear. A bright acidity provides structure, balance and a clean, refreshing finish. Enjoy the Rosabella Pinot Grigio today and over the next year with grilled shrimp, lake perch or light sausages.

Camille Stagg is a food, wine and travel journalist and author. Her latest book is "The Eclectic Gourmet Guide to Chicago" (Menasha Ridge Press). She was food editor of both the Chicago Sun-Times and Cuisine magazine.

Monkfish with Herbs and Pinot Gris

Ingredients

11/2 to 2 tbsp. olive oil
2 cloves garlic, minced
4 small monkfish fillets, about 1 3/4 lbs
Flour
2/3 cup Pinot Gris
3/4 cup bottled clam juice or fish stock
1/2 stick butter, softened
1/3 cup chopped mixed fresh herbs: chervil, chives, parsley, etc.
Freshly ground black pepper to taste

Preparation

Heat a medium nonstick skillet over medium heat for 3 minutes; add oil, spreading to evenly coat bottom. When hot, reduce heat slightly and sauté garlic until golden. Meanwhile, remove any membranes from fish. Lightly dredge fillets in flour. Remove garlic; reserve. Brown fillets in hot oil 5 to 6 minutes per side. Transfer to ovenproof casserole or platter and place in preheated 325°F oven about 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, prepare the sauce in the skillet: add the wine and reduce, stirring several minutes, over medium-high heat. Add clam juice and continue reducing to about 2/3 cup. Stir in any juices that the fish has released, as well. Reduce heat to low and stir in butter, a little at a time, until sauce is smooth and thick. Add herbs, pepper and reserved garlic (optional). Taste and adjust seasonings. Spoon sauce around fillets and serve hot.

Makes 4 servings
Preparation time: about 20 minutes
Cooking time: 25 to 30 minutes

Quote:

Burgess Meredith
American Actor and Oenophile