Some of the finest white wines in the classic world are produced from Chenin Blanc: from bone-dry to dessert style to some mighty tasty sparkling wines. It is a little sad that, like a number of other wine varieties, a lot of Chenin blanc is widely planted in California for jug white wines. A small percentage of California 20,000 or so acres of the grape lie in the cooler coastal counties. Here, a few tenacious, spirited winegrowers cultivate the grape, even though Chenin Blanc is a highly profitable grape like Chardonnay for example. If the grapes are planted on the right site and the yields are kept low, very good Chenins can be made. One of the characteristics of the grape is that its resulting wines have higher than average aromatics; and when the wines are fermented completely dry, the fruit flavors have a lightly bitter edge, adding to the complexity and ageability of the wines. Many Chenin Blanc wines are vinified to retain some residual sugar, making them most desireable as apéritifs with the appetizer course, or just for sipping on a warm afternoon. Try most Chenin blanc-based wines in the same situations and with the same kinds of foods you would with most Rieslings: apéritifs, fowl (from roasted to smoked), river fish or even light cheeses. Drink young and chilled, but not ice cold.

Camille says... A wonderful combo - the sweet potatoes are a nice contrast to the baby eggplant. Chenin Blanc is compatible with this curried dish; it offsets the mild bittersweet tastes. A light vegetarian meal can finish with a more substantial dessert. Maybe the right time to satisfy a craving for warm Dutch apple pie ala mode.

211/2 tablespoons Canola oil
3 medium onions, thinly sliced
1 tablespoon sugar
8 ounces plain yogurt or low-fat plain yogurt
11/4 teaspoons Madras curry powder
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1/2 cup Chenin Blanc
3 baby eggplants, sliced
1/2-inch thick salted & drained on paper towels
3 medium-small sweet potatoes (1 lb) sliced 1/4-inch thick
3 ounces soft chevre (goat cheese), crumbled

Preparation

Heat oil in a medium skillet or sauté pan. Add onions and sugar to the pan. Sauté onions about 15 minutes over medium heat, stirring frequently until soft and light golden.
In a small bowl, combine yogurt, curry, salt, pepper and wine. Blend well; add to onions. Rinse salt off eggplant slices & pat dry with paper toweling. In a greased 11/2-quart casserole dish, layer 1/3 of the slices of the sweet potatoes and eggplant, topping the layer with 1/4 of the onion mixture; repeat this 3 times.

Top with onion mixture. Cover and bake in preheated 350°F. oven for about 45 minutes. Add the crumbled chevre and bake another 15 minutes. Serve immediately, spooning any remaining sauce over each serving.

Preparation time: about 25 minutes

Marinade time: about 1 minutes

Makes 4 servings.

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