Pinot Gris, originally grown prolifically in the Burgundy region of France, is one of the best-known mutations of Pinot Noir, which has purple-blue berries. The French word for grey is "gris" and is used here because the grapes can range in color from a grey-blue to pink on the same bunch. And Pinot Blanc grapes, another mutation, are mostly greenish-yellow. Pinot Gris is named color-wise between blanc (white) and noir (black), thus, it is gris (grey).

In the rest of France, primarily the Loire, Pinot Gris is softly perfumed with lush fruit flavors. The rich, dry wines of Alsace (where it is still known as Tokay d'Alsace) are celebrated worldwide for their affinity with food. It is widely planted throughout central Europe where it is produced in a range of styles and names. It is probably most famous in northern Italy, where it is called "Pinot Grigio", and it is light and crisp with light aromas.

Plantings in the United States currently are very limited. There are a few regions in California and some in Oregon. But that will change soon, as the more attention it receives the more popular it will become. Pinot Gris is typically released up to a year after harvest and can easily age for a couple of years.

Camille says...Monkfish has the similar consistency and sweet flavor of lobster, but a modest price - it is sometimes called "poor man's lobster." Here the fish i s seared in a pan, then roasted briefly. Round out the menu with potatoes, green vegetables and a carrot slaw.

11/2 to 2 tbsp. olive oil
2 cloves garlic, minced
4 small monkfish fillets, about 1 3/4 lbs
Flour
2/3 cup Pinot Gris
3/4 cup bottled clam juice or fish stock
1/2 stick butter, softened
1/3 cup chopped mixed fresh herbs: chervil, chives, parsley, etc.
Freshly ground black pepper to taste

Preparation

Heat a medium nonstick skillet over medium heat for 3 minutes; add oil, spreading to evenly coat bottom. When hot, reduce heat slightly and sauté garlic until golden. Meanwhile, remove any membranes from fish. Lightly dredge fillets in flour. Remove garlic; reserve. Brown fillets in hot oil 5 to 6 minutes per side.

Transfer to ovenproof casserole or platter and place in preheated 325°F oven about 10 minutes. Meanwhile, prepare the sauce in the skillet: add the wine and reduce, stirring several minutes, over medium-high heat. Add clam juice and continue reducing to about 2/3 cup. Stir in any juices that the fish has released, as well. Reduce heat to low and stir in butter, a little at a time, until sauce is smooth and thick. Add herbs, pepper and reserved garlic (optional). Taste and adjust seasonings. Spoon sauce around fillets and serve hot.

Preparation time: about 20 minutes

Cooking time: 25 to 30 minutes

Servings: Makes 4 servings.

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