This fine red wine grape enjoys the highest reputation in its native France where it is responsible for all the celebrated red Burgundy wines such as Romanée-Conti, Pommard, Chambertin and much of the full-bodied Champagne that is produced. At its best, Pinot Noir is justly described as spicy, rich and complex with great finesse and elegance, together with silky texture. Unlike Cabernet Sauvignon, the other famous red wine grape, Pinot Noir is not easily grown or vinified into a consistently fine product. Despite the grape’s difficulties, it has been transplanted around the world to all the fine wine districts. California, as elsewhere, special efforts and skills are required to coax the best from this noble variety.

In trying to obtain the best from this elusive grape, California winemakers are now paying close attention to vineyard location (cooler areas are best), clonal selection (there are at least 200 to choose from), and Burgundian winemaking techniques. These include adding stems to the tank after crushing, reduced fining and filtration, and the use of wild yeasts for fermentation. All this attention to detail has added substantially to the success of California Pinot Noirs, many of which are now on a par with their French cousins. The wines are always dry and are best enjoyed at cool room temperature, paired with medium-bodied foods.

Camille says...Pinot Noir is a perfect match for salmon. I created this recipe based on one of my favorite preparations for salmon; it is simple, quick and delicious with its wine marinade. Add broiled potatoes, a tossed green salad, crusty bread, and perhaps end the meal with pound cake topped with fresh fruit.

1 salmon fillet (2 lbs), skin on
1/4 cup light-flavored olive oil, divided
2 cloves garlic, crushed
1 tbsp minced fresh coriander
1 green onion, thinly sliced
2 tsp rice wine vinegar
1 tsp Oriental sesame oil
4 cups mixed baby lettuce leaves or
mesclun, rinsed and dried
2 tbsp fresh lime juice
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to
taste

Preparation

Remove pin bones that run down center of salmon fillet. Rinse salmon fillets; pat dry. Heat 11/2 tablespoons of the oil in a medium skillet over medium heat; when hot, add garlic and sauté until slightly golden. Reduce heat, add coriander and green onion, stirring until slightly wilted. Stir in vinegar and sesame oil. Remove from heat.

Place lettuces in medium bowl and toss with warm vinegar-sesame oil mixture. Meanwhile, preheat grill with a cover. With sharp knife, score salmon skin on diagonal. Brush salmon with remaining 21/2 tablespoons olive oil. When coals are hot, place salmon, skin-side-down, on hot grill. Cover and cook 6 to 8 minutes. Check interior flesh by cutting a small gash with sharp knife; it should be mostly opaque and more pink in center. Season fish with salt and pepper and serve over dressed salad greens.

• Makes 4 to 5 servings •

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