This excellent white wine grape is widely cultivated in California and is becoming increasingly successful as an alternative to the somewhat more costly Chardonnay. In its native France, it is the principal white grape of the Graves district of Bordeaux; it is also responsible for the charming fruity wines produced along the upper Loire Valley, the best known of which is Pouilly-Fumé, but also Sancerre.

The grape can yield a wide range of wines from light and fruity to rich and assertive, with an intense herbaceous character, which is sometimes called grassy. Transplanted to California in the mid-1800s, Sauvignon Blanc wines were initially produced in the semi-sweet style. Then in the late 1960s, Napa Valley vintner Robert Mondavi introduced a dry, crisp Sauvignon Blanc he named Fumé Blanc to associate the wine with those of the Loire Valley. Mondavi's style has been highly successful and most California wineries offering Sauvignon Blanc wines produce them in this style. Over 120 of California's wineries now offer a Sauvignon Blanc or Fumé Blanc in their line. Colors range from light straw to golden. Serve chilled with light to medium-bodied foods.

Camille says...Scalloped oysters gain a little sass from Dijon mustard and a splash of hot sauce. Suggested accompaniments are tossed green salad, dilled green beans and roasted Yukon Gold potatoes. Warm dried fruit compote makes a compatible finish.

6 tbsp sweet butter
1 tsp chopped shallots
2/3 cup fresh bread crumbs
2/3 cup cracker or dry bread crumbs
1 pint shucked oysters in their liquor
1/4 cup Sauvignon Blanc
2 tbsp half and half
2 tsp Dijon mustard
Dash Tabasco or similar hot sauce
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
4 sprigs parsley for garnish

Preparation

Melt butter in a medium skillet. Add shallots and sauté until golden brown; reserve. Add bread and cracker crumbs to pan, stirring until moistened with butter. Remove from heat. Spread half the buttered crumbs over the bottom of a 9-inch square baking dish (or similar size rectangular dish). Drain shucked oysters, reserving liquor. Measure 2 tablespoons liquor in a heavy, small saucepan; stir in wine, half-and-half, mustard and Tabasco. Add reserved shallots. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, reduce heat and cook gently, stirring until mixture is reduced by 1/3. Arrange oysters in a single layer over the crumbs in the pan. Sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper. Evenly pour the sauce over the oysters. Cover with remaining buttered crumbs and bake in preheated 425°F oven 23 to 25 minutes, until crumbs are golden-brown. Remove from oven and serve immediately; garnish with parsley.

Preparation time: about 22 minutes

Cooking time: about 35 minutes

Makes 4 servings.

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