Syrah is a red grape which originated in the southern Rhone wine region of France. Today Syrah accounts for about 194,000 acres worldwide. Of that total, 57% is in France and another third in Australia where they call it "Shiraz". In California, where there are now 10,300 acres, Syrah has been an immense success story. As recently as 1991 there were less than 500 acres in the Golden State. This is a 2400% increase in 9 years! What makes California such a great home for this grape is the state's Mediterranean climate in which the Syrah grape thrives.

California's winemakers have substantially shortened the learning curve with this grape and now some of the wines they are producing can stand up to the best that France has to offer. Grape vine age is the big factor here: obviously most of the Syrah vineyards are less than 10 years old. Once the average vine age hits 15 years or more, the sky is the limit for quality.

Syrah shows many facets: look for black pepper and cassis aromas and sometimes a very rustic flavor overtone the French call animale. Calfornia Syrahs go very well with fuller flavored dishes: stews, roasts, game and full-flavored cheeses do quite nicely.

Camille says...Lamb makes an elegant dinner main course, and this one attains flavor from an gerbed wine marinade, then a zesty basting sauce before roasting. Serve it with green peas and pearl onions, baked acorn squash and a salad Apple-cranberry pie is a lovely finish.

1 sirloin leg of lamb, about 4 lbs., trimmed of skin and excess fat
3 cloves garlic, each cut into 6 even slivers
3/4 cup Syrah, divided
1 clove garlic, crushed
2 tbsp. olive oil
21/2 tbsp.chopped fresh or 2 tsp. crumbled dried rosemary
1 tbsp. chopped fresh or 3/4 tsp. crumbled dried thyme
Freshly ground black peppercorns
1 tbsp. Worcestershire sauce
1 tbsp. cranberry juice
Salt
11/2 tbsp. softened butter

Preparation

Using the tip of a paring knife, slash lamb in 18 places, spacing cuts evenly across surface, insert a garlic sliver into each. In large shallow glass dish, combine 2/3 cup of the wine, the crushed garlic, olive oil, rosemary, thyme, and peppercorns. Stir well. Add lamb, turning to coat all sides. Cover and refrigerate 1 to 11/2 hours, turn after 1/2 hour. Drain lamb, reserving marinade. Place lamb on rack of roasting pan. Combine Worcestershire sauce with cranberry juice; add the remaining marinade and baste lamb with some of the mixture. Roast in preheated 425°F oven 50 to 60 minutes, basting once or twice. Roast until meat thermometer inserted into meat, away from fat or bone, registers 145°F for medium-rare or 155°F for medium doneness. Temperature will continue to rise an aditional 5 degrees after lamb is removed from oven.

Transfer lamb to hot platter, sprinkle with a little salt, let stand 10 minutes before carving. Add remaining wine (slightly more as needed), to the pan, scraping up bits; stir in butter. Serve with lamb.

Preparation time: about 12 minutes

Marinating time: atleast 1 hour

Cooking time: about 50 to 60 minutes

Makes 8 servings

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