Syrah is a red grape which originated in the southern Rhone wine region of France. Today Syrah accounts for about 194,000 acres worldwide. Of that total, 57% is in France and another third in Australia where they call it "Shiraz". In California, where there are now 10,300 acres, Syrah has been an immense success story. As recently as 1991 there were less than 500 acres in the Golden State. This is a 2400% increase in 9 years! What makes California such a great home for this grape is the state's Mediterranean climate in which the Syrah grape thrives.

California's winemakers have substantially shortened the learning curve with this grape and now some of the wines they are producing can stand up to the best that France has to offer. Grape vine age is the big factor here: obviously most of the Syrah vineyards are less than 10 years old. Once the average vine age hits 15 years or more, the sky is the limit for quality.

Syrah shows many facets: look for black pepper and cassis aromas and sometimes a very rustic flavor overtone the French call animale. Calfornia Syrahs go very well with fuller flavored dishes: stews, roasts, game and full-flavored cheeses do quite nicely.

Camille says...This delicious winter dish will put a smile on your family's face. This is pure comfort food. Serve this with a green salad and spaetzle and gravy. Homemade chocolate chip cookies would be a perfect finish.

• 1- 6 lb boneless beef rump or round roast
• 3/4 cup red wine vinegar
• 2 cups Syrah + 2 cups water
• 2 large onions, sliced
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• 1 tsp whole peppercorns
• 2 tsp salt
• 2 bay leaves
• 1/4 lb butter
• 1/3 cup brown sugar, firmly packed
• 3 tbsp flour
• 8 oz fresh mushrooms, sliced

Preparation

Place meat in non-reactive bowl. Combine vinegar, wine, water, onions, garlic, peppercorns, salt and bay leaves in medium saucepan. Bring to boil. Pour over meat; cool. Cover and marinate in refrigerator 2 to 3 days, turning twice daily.

Remove meat from marinade; pat dry with paper towels. Brown meat on all sides in deep kettle. Add marinade. Cover and cook 3 to 31/2 hours, until meat is tender, turning occasionally. Remove meat to heated platter; keep warm.

Strain marinade. Melt butter in kettle or saucepan; add brown sugar and stir until dissolved. Blend in flour. Gradually stir in marinade. Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, until slightly thickened. Add sliced mushrooms, stir and heat. Transfer roast to platter; slice and serve with spaetzle and gravy.

Makes 10 servings.

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