Syrah is a red grape which originated in the southern Rhone wine region of France. Today Syrah accounts for about 194,000 acres worldwide. Of that total, 57% is in France and another third in Australia where they call it "Shiraz". In California, where there are now 10,300 acres, Syrah has been an immense success story. As recently as 1991 there were less than 500 acres in the Golden State. This is a 2400% increase in 9 years! What makes California such a great home for this grape is the state's Mediterranean climate in which the Syrah grape thrives.

California's winemakers have substantially shortened the learning curve with this grape and now some of the wines they are producing can stand up to the best that France has to offer. Grape vine age is the big factor here: obviously most of the Syrah vineyards are less than 10 years old. Once the average vine age hits 15 years or more, the sky is the limit for quality.

Syrah shows many facets: look for black pepper and cassis aromas and sometimes a very rustic flavor overtone the French call animale. Calfornia Syrahs go very well with fuller flavored dishes: stews, roasts, game and full-flavored cheeses do quite nicely.

Camille says...During the holidays, it's wonderful to have several recipes that are quick to prepare. A bit of butter is added for the sauce and toasted rosemary sprigs add a festive, flavorful finish. Venison steaks make an appropriate seasonal substitute.

4 boneless rib steaks (Delmonico or club) 7-8 ounces each, 1-inch thick
3 Tbsp canola or olive oil, divided
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
2 medium cloves garlic, crushed
3/4 cup Syrah or other dry red wine
2 Tbsp teriyaki sauce
2 Tbsp softened butter
4 sprigs rosemary

Preparation

Trim any excess fat from steaks and slash edges in several places to prevent curling during cooking. Pat dry.

In a large, heavy skillet, heat 2 Tablespoons of oil over medium-high heat. Brown steaks on both sides; turn once (for medium-rare, about 4 minutes per side); sauté until desired doneness. Remove from heat; transfer steaks to warmed serving plates. Season with salt and pepper; keep warm. Drain excess fat from pan.

Sauté garlic, stirring, until softened. Add wine, increase heat to high and stir to loosen drippings. Add teriyaki sauce. Cook, stirring, until reduced to a scant 1/2 cup. Consistency should be that of a thin syrup. Remove from heat, gradually stir in softened butter; the sauce should be a creamy consistency. Avoid overcooking.

In a small skillet, heat remaining 1 tablespoon oil until hot. Brown rosemary 1 1/2 minutes, turning on all sides. Pour 1/4 of the sauce around each steak.

Top each with toasted rosemary garnish. Serve immediately with baked potatoes and steamed broccoli.

Preparation time: about 16 minutes

Cooking time: 14 to 16 minutes.

Servings: Makes 4 servings.

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