The Insider - Official Wine Insider Newsletter - January 2012

Wine Newsletter

Change for Three Coins
This month's featured varietal: Viognier (vee-on-yay)
Vegetarian Enchiladas

Wine Newsletter Archives

 

Dear Wine Insiders,

It’s no secret that I admire winemakers. I’ve often said that anyone who can successfully run a winery could probably run General Motors.

At small family wineries – the ones I’m drawn to – “ma and pa and the kids” do it all. Not only must they grow great grapes and make a superb product, but they have to market their wine to consumers. Lots of different skills are involved. (At General Motors, there are dozens and dozens of vice- presidents responsible for all these tasks.)

A number of years ago, one of my favorite vintners, legendary pioneer Louis P. Martini, was relating how the wine business had changed over the years. Louis remembered setting up a stand in the 1930s on Highway 29, the road that runs down the middle of Napa Valley. He sold all the wine he could produce, a bottle at a time. Louis sighed and lamented, “John, you’d be surprised at what it takes to sell a bottle of wine today.”

Nowadays, third generation winemaker Michael Martini employs an entire marketing team whose responsibilities include coordinating summer concerts at the winery, winemaker dinners throughout the country, year-round tasting, national advertising, and more. Staying competitive today requires an enormous marketing effort.
And, remember, the enterprise is entirely dependent on weather, which may be why there’s a great deal of humility among vintners.

I admire winemakers for many reasons, not the least of which is that they make a healthy, historic beverage. As one sage put it: “Wine is the most civilized thing mankind has done.”

Kind regards,  

John Davis, founder, Wine Insiders

Change for Three Coins

GOLD MEDALS TAKE THE PLACE OF GOLD NUGGETS FOR LAWER FAMILY WINES
Born and raised in Alaska, Betsy Lawer mined gold with her father in the foothills of Mt.McKinley. “He would throw three coins down the hill where my sisters and I were mining, writing down which coins were tossed on what date,” Lawer explains. Upon clean-up, if those three coins weren’t at the bottom of the sluice box, it meant the water pressure was too high and the coins had been washed into the tailing pile, along with some of the gold.

“The coins were a quality control indicator,” she points out.  “The Three Coins name symbolizes the patience, hard work and special care that go into every bottle.”

Years later, Lawer and her husband became involved in California’s wine business, redeveloping the Folie a Deux brand with partners. When the winery sold (to Sutter Home) and they returned to Alaska, they found themselves still longing for wine country.
“We found a wonderful vineyard in Franz Valley, just outside Calistoga,” Lawer told The Tasting Panel.* “It’s a beautiful valley.”  The Lawers added more vineyard blocks to this former apple orchard and began producing a new label under the Lawer Family Wines umbrella.

Three Coins Wines, named after her father’s gold mining quality-control system, has received awards from competitions all over the country, and the 2006 Syrah won a Gold Medal at the 2011 San Francisco International Wine Competition.

The Three Coins line-up includes a 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley), a single- vineyard 2006 Syrah (Knight’s Valley/Sonoma County), a 2007 Chardonnay (Carneros) and single-vineyard 2008 Viognier.
For more information go to: www.threecoinswines.com

This month's featured varietal: Viognier (vee-on-yay)

The distinctive aroma of peaches, apricots, and violets is a hallmark of Viognier. A number of first-time tasters are surprised by the taste; the color and nose hinting at something sweeter. The actual taste is dry with a variety of nuances on the palate.

Viognier has gone worldwide with vineyards in Italy, Spain, Greece, Switzerland and Austria as well as Chile, Argentina, New Zealand and South Africa...the list goes on. But it is the rapid increase in Viognier plantings in California and Australia that has helped to push the wine onto the world stage.

There are over 500 acres now grown in Australia. Here, the key to quality wines is harvesting the fruit at exactly the right time.

Before 1990, there were hardly any vines in California – today there are nearly 2,000 acres devoted to the vine. The first vines were introduced in the early 1980s along the Central Coast in Monterey, but since 1990, plantings have been greatly expanded across the area due to growing demand.

Viognier has achieved almost a cult wine status in the US. Its highly aromatic nose is complemented by moderate acidity and flavors of peaches and minerals in the mouth.

Vegetarian Enchiladas

These vegetarian enchiladas (a popular Mexican tortilla dish) are wonderful with Viognier, which refreshes the palate from the Mexican spices. This recipe reflects my own preference for a warm mouth feel, not burning chile heat.

Ingredients:

            • 1 Tbsp olive or cooking oil
            • 1 large clove garlic, crushed
            • 1 medium green bell pepper, seeded & chopped
            • 1 medium onion, finely chopped
            • 2 tsp chili powder (or to taste)
            • 1/4 cup Viognier or similar white wine 2 cans (15 oz) black beans (or kidney beans)
            • 3/4 cup tomato sauce
            • 3/4 cup canned or frozen corn (use fresh in season)
            • 8 corn tortillas
            • 2 Tbsp black (or other) mole sauce
            • 3/4 cup queso blanco (white cheese), crumbled
            • 3 Tbsp minced fresh cilantro

Perparation:
Heat oil in a medium nonstick skillet over medium heat, sautée garlic, bell pepper, onion and chili powder until vegetables are soft, 2 to 3 minutes. Add wine, reduce heat and simmer 1 minute. Stir in beans with liquid and tomato sauce. Increase heat until mixture bubbles, then reduce to low, cover and simmer 8 minutes. Meanwhile warm the tortillas by steaming, in the microwave or low oven. Keep warm. Add corn to mixture in skillet and simmer 3 minutes with lid removed to reduce liquid. Keep mixture warm.

To serve, spread a little mole sauce on each hot tortilla; divide filling among tortillas and top each with some cheese and cilantro. Roll tortillas up around filling, arrange in oiled 9 x 13 baking dish. Pour any liquid left from the mixture over enchiladas, cover the dish with foil and bake in preheated 425°F oven for about 15 minutes,
or until hot.

Preparation time: about 25 minutes.
Cooking time:about 30 minutes.
Makes 4 servings.