Fine Wine Adventures - Mendocino

Wine grapes were first planted in Mendocino County in the 1850s following the California Gold Rush. Immigrant farmers, failing as prospectors, turned to agriculture as a way of life in their new home. Saving the flatter lands on the river plains for food crops, these pioneer vintners planted their
vineyards on the more rugged hillsides and sun-exposed ridgetops - prime spots for wine grapes.

Isolated from larger city markets to the south, Mendocino’s early grape growers sold, traded and drank their wines close to home. Vintners in Napa and Sonoma Counties, closer to San Francisco, transported their wines to the big city market by boat, gaining greater exposure and broader markets.

Trains and Prohibition

By the time the railroad had pushed north to Mendocino, Napa and Sonoma wineries were well-known and established in the burgeoning San Francisco wine market, a gateway to the world for California's wines. Mendocino viticulture remained relatively unknown.

Prohibition nearly put a complete stop to Mendocino’s nascent winegrowing
industry. The small wineries disappeared and vineyard acreage declined. Only the efforts of the Parducci family in Ukiah continued interest in winemaking in Mendocino County during the difficult post-Prohibition years from 1933 until the 1960s.

Current Status

The “wine boom,” beginning in the 1960s, continued through the 1970s
and, especially, the 1980s. Today, Mendocino vineyards and wineries prosper, and attention has now focused on the grape varieties and wine styles that best suit Mendocino’s microclimates, especially sparkling wine, Zinfandel and Sauvignon Blanc.

Wine Appellations

From roughly south to north, here are the important appellations: Anderson
Valley, McDowell Valley, Potter Valley, Cole Ranch, Redwood Valley and Mendoci
no Ridge.

Some recent Mendocino Wine Club offerings:
Roederer Estate
Edmeades Estates
Jepson Winery
Pacific Echo
Brutocao Cellars

Lodging recommendations:

MacCallum House 707-937-5763
Albion St. www.maccallumdining.com
Mendocino, CA Dinner nightly

Highland Ranch 707-895-3600
Philo-Greenwood Rd Lunch/Dinner
Philo, CA www.highlandranch.com

Albion River Inn 800-479-7944
PO Box 100 Lunch/Dinner
Albion, CA www.albionriverinn.com

Boonville Hotel 707-895-2210
PO Box 326 Lunch/Dinner
Boonville, CA www.boonvillehotel.com

This Month's Wines....

Merlot (mair - low)
by Sharon Rosenbaum, Senior Wine Buyer

This distinguished red wine grape has been important in its native France
and now enjoys much acclaim among California winemakers and the U.S. wine
consuming public. In Bordeaux, it is the principal grape of the Pomerol and
St. Emilion districts. It is widely planted throughout the rest of the area,
where it is blended with Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. As a blending
grape, Merlot adds softness and complexity to the more astringent Cabernets.
In California, Merlot was virtually unknown until it was planted during the
Cabernet boom of the 1970s to serve as a secondary grape.

On its own, Merlot does indeed make a lovely wine with all the richness of
Cabernet, though softer and therefore enjoyable with less aging. Currently,
the better California Merlots command prices similar to the top Cabernet
Sauvignons and, in some cases, wine-makers are now adding a bit of Cabernet
to their Merlot wine, reversing the traditional roles of these two noble
grapes. Merlot wines are always dry, range in color from ruby to very dark
garnet and, as with most reds, are most enjoyable at cool room temperature.

2001 Fire Creek San Luis Obispo

Fire Creek is a 100 % Merlot wine produced from two vineyards, both in the
Shandon Hills area near Paso Robles in San Luis Obispo County. It is crafted
in a flavorful style with intensely ripe fruit and just enough tannin for
structure. The wine is deep purple in color with flavors that focus on ripe
black cherry, blackberry and cassis.

A medium-full body reveals nuances of dark chocolate. The aromas offer
black fruit and mint. A lovely thread of subtle sweet oak carries the fruit
flavors through the finish. The flavors of this Merlot complement a wide variety of foods, including tomato-based pasta, or a grilled hamburger. Ready to drink now and over the
next 2 years.

2000 Casa del Lago California

Grapes for this selection were sourced from two of California's oldest
vineyard sites – one in Monterey County and one in the Sierra Foothills.
Grapes were chosen for their natural fruit character which develops in these
two diverse climates and then blended for complexity.

The wine was fermented in temperature-controlled stainless steel on the
skins to extract color and retain ripe fresh fruit flavors.
Casa del Lago displays a deep purple color. Its aromas are redolent of
ripe plum with hints of truffles and berries. Notes of chocolate and spice
emerge in the generously fruity, round flavors on the finish. Enjoy now with
roast lamb or braised short ribs.

Camille Stagg is a food, wine and travel journalist and author. Her latest book is "The Eclectic Gourmet Guide to Chicago" (Menasha Ridge Press). She was food editor of both the Chicago Sun-Times and Cuisine magazine. 

Pork Tenderloin in Merlot-Mushroom Sauce

Ingredients

Pork tenderloin (about 11/4 lb.),
cut into 1-inch thick crosswise slices
About 1/4 cup all-purpose flour seasoned with
salt and ground pepper
1 tbsp unsalted butter
1 tbsp olive oil
1 medium onion, thinly sliced
1/2 cup Merlot
8 ounces medium mushrooms, quartered
2 tsp chopped fresh, or 1/2 tsp crushed, dried, rosemary
12 whole Kalamata olives
3 tbsp chopped fresh parsley

Preparation

Pound pork slices slightly to flatten. Dredge lightly in seasoned flour. In large skillet over medium heat, melt butter; add olive oil. When hot, sauté pork slices until golden-brown. Transfer to plate.

Sauté onions until golden. Return pork to skillet with onions. Add wine, stir and increase heat until mixture begins to bubble. Add rosemary and simmer 1/2 minute. Reduce heat, cover skillet and simmer 25 minutes. Add mushrooms and olives, cover and continue simmering another 20 minutes, or until pork is done. An instant-read meat thermometer inserted into center of meat should register 160° when done; or pork should no longer be pink when cut with a sharp knife.

Serve dish topped with chopped parsley.

Makes 4 servings.
Preparation time: about 20 minutes
Cooking time: about 53 minutes

Quote:

Ernest Hemingway: The Sun Also Rises
American Author, 1899–1961