Sulfites - Wine's Good Friend

Sulfites have been used since the early Roman times in winemaking for many purposes, including the cleansing of wine receptacles. Following are some pertinent questions about sulfites and wine.

How and why are sulfites used? In modern wine making, the antioxidant and antimicrobial properties of sulfites encourage rapid and clean fermentation of wine grapes. Because of wine's alcohol and acidity, low levels of SO2 are needed for stability. Fermentation naturally generates 8-10 parts per million sulfites, so no other additions are made until bottling. At the time of bottling, SO2 levels are adjusted to 20-30 ppm, sometimes more is needed. Wines actually need one of the lowest levels of sulfites to ensure stability.

Why require "contains sulfites" labels? In 1985, research caused the FDA to issue regulations that required foods, such as wine, to indicate the presence of sulfites on the label. The FDA estimates that one in 100 people is sulfite sensitive to some degree, so the purpose of the labeling is to alert this small percentage of people (about 1%) that the product is a sulfite-containing food or beverage. The study concluded that sulfites were safe for most people.

Do red or white wines have more SO2? Actually, red wines may have less. White wine darkens more readily, so more sulfites are needed. New technologies have allowed the use of significantly less sulfur than was used in the past to make a stable wine.

What other products have sulfites?

Sulfite Levels over 100 ppm Dried fruits: apples, apricots, white raisins (500 to 1,000ppm), Bottled lemon and lime juice

Modest Sulfite levels (50-99 ppm) Grape juice, Wine vinegar, Fruit toppings, Maraschino cherries

Low Sulfite levels (10-49 ppm) Shrimp (fresh), Pickles, Corn Starch, Fresh mushrooms.

This Month's Wines....

Barbera (bar-bear-ah)
by Sharon Rosenbaum, Senior Wine Buyer

Barbera is one of the world's most widely planted grapes. In its native Italy, it is the second most common red wine grape and is the wine of choice in the Piedmont area, Italy's most sophisticated and wine-oriented region. Successfully transplanted to California, there are almost 11,000 acres of Barbera planted in the Golden State. The vast majority of plantings are in the Central Valley with some acreage along the coast and in the Sierra Foothills. California winemakers value the Barbera for its natural high acidity and use the grape primarily for blending with other red wine grapes.

Those Barberas that are produced from grapes grown in the cooler areas are generally of a high quality and are worth seeking out. They can exhibit considerable character, beautiful dark color, berry-like aroma, fruitiness and good aging potential. The fruitiness and acidity of Barberas make them ideal companions with seasoned foods such as beef or lamb prepared in a Mediterranean style or hearty pasta dishes. Serve at cool room temperature.

2000 Balmont Cellars California

Barbera had long been a preferred wine in the Martini and Sebastiani households by the time they introduced Barbera to California. The 2000 Balmont follows in their 30+ year tradition. It's a California/ International style, a blend of noble grape varieties which may share a vineyard in the new world, but not in the old. For this 2000 vintage Barbera, the winemaker added a touch of Syrah to enhance the ripe blackberry and plum aromas while balancing and softening the natural acidity and complex texture of the Barbera grape. This permits the fruit flavors to take center stage from the first sip through to the finish. Ready to enjoy today and over the next 2 years. Pair with a turkey burger with the works, pork or beef fajitas or grilled sausages and polenta.

2000 Anatalia Lodi

Anatalia Barbera was produced from a 100 year-old vineyard northeast of San Francisco near the Sierra Foothills (Barbera vines are about 25 years old). This mostly dry farmed region is renowned for deeply colored, fragrant and intensely flavorful red wines. Barbera, along with Zinfandel, makes up almost 50% of all the plantings in the area because the soils and the long warm summers are ideal for these late ripening varieties.

The 2000 Anatalia Barbera displays a deep ruby color, with aromas of fully ripe berry, cherry and currant. It is a beautifully balanced wine with medium-full body, soft tannins and a crisp, dry finish. The wine is delicious today and will continue to soften over next 2 years. Enjoy with mushroom risotto, duck, or spicy grilled chicken.

Camille Stagg is a food, wine and travel journalist and author. Her latest book is "The Eclectic Gourmet Guide to Chicago" (Menasha Ridge Press). She was food editor of both the Chicago Sun-Times and Cuisine magazine. 

Barbera Beef Burgers

Ingredients

•1 1/2 lbs lean ground beef or lamb
2 cloves garlic, minced
3/4 cup Barbera
1 tablespoon virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon whole grain mustard
Several dashes of bitters
1 1/2 tablespoons minced fresh oregano
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Preparation

Combine meat with garlic, mixing well. Divide into 4 even 6-ounce pieces and shape into burgers. Place in a shallow glass pan.

For the marinade, mix wine with remaining ingredients in a 1-cup glass measure. Pour over burgers, turning to coat both sides. Marinate for 20 minutes, turning once. Drain meat well, pat dry with paper toweling; reserve marinade for basting.

Place burgers on preheated grill over hot coals and baste with marinade; grill 5 inches from heat about 5 minutes, until browned. Turn and baste. Continue grilling about 4 to 5 minutes, basting often, until burgers are browned and medium-rare.

Discard any unused marinade.

Makes 4 servings
Preparation time: about 14 minutes
Marinating time: 20 minutes
Cooking time: 9 to 10 minutes

Fresh berries over vanilla ice cream ends the meal.

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