This Month's Wines....

This fine red wine grape enjoys the highest reputation in its native France where it is responsible for all the celebrated red Burgundy wines and much of the full-bodied Champagne. At its best, Pinot Noir is justly described as spicy, rich and complex with great finesse and elegance, together with silky texture. Pinot Noir is not easily grown or vinified into a consistently fine product. Despite the grape's difficulties, it has been transplanted around the world to all the fine wine districts. In California, as elsewhere, special efforts and skills are required to coax the best from this noble variety. In trying to obtain the best from this elusive grape, California winemakers are now paying close attention to vineyard location (cooler areas are best), clonal selection (there are at least 200 to choose from), and fine Burgundian winemaking techniques. These include adding stems to the tank after crushing, reduced fining and filtration, as well as the use of wild yeasts for fermentation. All this attention to detail has added substantially to the success of California Pinot Noirs, many of which are now on a par with their French cousins. These full-bodied wines are always dry and are best enjoyed at cool room temperature, paired with foods such as aged prime beef and rich cheeses..

Fumé Blanc and Sauvignon Blanc are different names covering the same wine. The latter is the more classic and the actual name of the grape, while the former is a recent innovation of Robert Mondavi. The famous vintner invented the name 35 years ago and California has claimed his invention as their own. Worldwide there are about 175,000 acres of the grape with France far and away the leader with 42,000 acres, mostly in the Loire and Bordeaux wine regions, and some new vineyards in the Languedoc-Roussillon area. California comes in fifth with 13,000.

The name Sauvignon - "sauvage" in French - means wild. It is an apt name. First, it attacks the palate with a higher than usual acidity which makes it a great apéritif - the first wine of the meal. Second, when it grows in colder climes of the world, it can yield VERY vegetal flavors. However, in California's warmer climate it usually shows more of its fruity side, reminding many of melons or quince. Colors range from light straw to yellow-gold. The great majority of California wineries now offer a Sauvignon Blanc or Fumé Blanc in their line. As in Bordeaux, it is often blended with Sémillon and aged in small oak barrels. Pair with light to medium-bodied foods and goat cheeses.

Waterstone Sauvignon Blanc
Vintage: 2000
Region: Napa Valley
Total Acid: .62 g/l
Alcohol: 13%
Residual Sugar: .1
Cellaring: 1-2 years

Panel’s Notes: This wine is crisp with floral notes and accents of lemon and tangerine. Soft herbal flavors balance the lingering fruity finish.

Winery Background: This is a special release from Philip Zorn, acclaimed winemaker for a number of limited release award winners. Premium Sauvignon Blanc grapes are blended with 9% Semillon to add richness and complexity. The fruit was crushed and fermented separately and aged in stainless steel to retain the fruit aromas and flavors.

Food: Enjoy today with grilled seafood, poultry or Italian vegetable soups. Great with aged goat cheeses.

Stillgate Sauvignon Blanc
Vintage: 2002
Region: Contra Costa
Total Acid: .59 g/l
Alcohol: 13%
Residual Sugar: .2
Cellaring: 1-2 years

Panel’s Notes: This wine is crisp with a focus on ripe citrus fruit. The wine is completely dry, making it an ideal partner for a wide range of food pairings.

Winery Background: The Stillgate label reads California, but this 2002 vintage is 100% single vineyard Contra Costa, just east of the San Francisco Bay. Contra Costa is noted for old vine Zinfandels as well as cool region grapes such as Sauvignon Blanc.

Food: Complement to seafood pastas, roast chicken with lemon and fresh goat cheeses.

Camille Stagg is a food, wine and travel journalist and author. Her latest book is "The Eclectic Gourmet Guide to Chicago" (Menasha Ridge Press). She was food editor of both the Chicago Sun-Times and Cuisine magazine.

Scallops in Creamy Wine Sauce served over Pasta Shells

Ingredients

5 tbsp unsalted butter,
at room temperature, divided
2 to 3 medium cloves garlic, minced
1 medium onion, finely chopped.
1 small green bell pepper, seeded, thinly sliced
1 small red bell pepper, seeded, thinly sliced
10 to 12 oz small shell pasta
2 tsp all-purpose flour
1/3 cup Sauvignon Blanc
3/4 cup whipping cream
Salt and pepper
11/4 pounds sea scallops
3/4 cup loosely packed chopped fresh parsley
2 tbsp finely chopped fresh dill weed
or 11/4 tsp dried

Preparation

Melt 3 tablespoons of the butter in a 12-inch skillet over medium-low heat; sauté garlic, onion and bell peppers until softened, about 10 minutes. Meanwhile cook pasta in 3 to 4 quarts lightly salted water until al dente; drain. Add flour to vegetable mixture in skillet; cook and stir until golden. Stir in wine slowly; continue cooking until slightly thickened. Stir in whipping cream; increase heat to medium, cook and stir until boiling. Salt and pepper to taste. Add scallops, stir gently and cook until opaque, about 1 minute. Place pasta in serving bowl; toss with remaining butter and herbs. Spoon scallops and sauce over and serve.

• Makes 4 servings •

Quote:

Herman Melville: Confidence Man
American Novelist (1819-91)