This Month's Wines....

Zinfandel

by Sharon Rosenbaum, Senior Wine Buyer

Zinfandel is called “California’s grape”. But it is, like most of California’s grape varieties, originally from Europe. In the ’70s, it was thought that Zinfandel was the same grape as southern Italy’s Primitivo. Trouble was that Primitivo had been growing in Italy for only about 100 years. Zinfandel has been growing in California since the 1830s – a bit longer than in Italy. The best guess now is Croatia’s varietal “Mali Plavac”. California has over 50,000 acres of this grape, and while “White Zin” still has an audience, the most interesting and desirable versions of Zinfandel are the red ones – and the ones labeled “Old Vines” are quite special in their own right. California winemakers are dedicated to making great wines from this delicious grape.

Whatever its origins, versatile Zinfandel makes wines for the dinner table. They range from the lighter “Beaujolais” style; to the more elegant “Bordeaux” style; to the full-bodied, rich wines made for ribs, roasts and cheeses.

1997 Gillman Cellars San Luis Obispo

Zinfandel's ripe jammy fruit flavors have inspired more fan clubs than any other varietal. ZAP (Zinfandel Advocates and Producers) boasts 6,500 members including 310 producers. It's annual January tasting in San Francisco welcomes thousands of devotees. Zinfandel is so popular that the California legislature is considering naming it as the official state fruit. One of the most popular wines this year was this food friendly, easy drinking 1997 Gillman Cellars, a 5 year old that's perfectly ready to enjoy today. Deep purple in color, this wine offers inviting aromas of cherry and blackberry blossoms with notes of mint and pepper. It is smooth and rich in the mouth with ripe flavors of red and black berries. This wine is the perfect accompaniment to barbecue chicken or burgers, or a red-sauced seafood chowder.

1997 Black Fox Estate Cellars San Luis Obispo

The 1997 vintage throughout the Golden State is widely considered one of the best of the decade. It was particularly great for red wines as it showcased the concentrated fruit flavors and deep color. The 1997 Black Fox Estate Cellars is a blend of fruit from two "heritage Zinfandel vineyards" in San Luis Obispo County. These special vineyard sites - old vines, small berries, low yields - are part of California's rich agricultural history and one of today's treasures. This wine is superbly balanced, offering ripe raspberry and spice aromas and flavors. It was barrel aged for a smooth, velvety, lingering finish with just a hint of toast. A wonderful partner for blackened snapper, grilled meats and rich enough to pair nicely with a chocolate cheesecake. Enjoy today and over the next year.

Camille Stagg is a food, wine and travel journalist and author. Her latest book is "The Eclectic Gourmet Guide to Chicago" (Menasha Ridge Press). She was food editor of both the Chicago Sun-Times and Cuisine magazine.

Grilled Steak with Herbed Zinfandel Sauce

Ingredients

2 T-bone steaks*, (about 1 pound), cut 3/4 to 1-inch thick
21/2 tablespoons softened butter, divided
2 cloves garlic, crushed
1 tablespoon honey mustard
3/4 cup Zinfandel
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
1 tablespoon chopped fresh or 3/4 teaspoon crumbled dried oregano
1 tablespoon chopped fresh chives
Salt and freshly ground black pepper 4 sprigs oregano *
Porterhouse steaks can be used instead, if preferred

Preparation

Trim excess fat from steak; slash fatty edges to prevent curling during cooking. Rinse steak; pat dry with paper toweling. In small bowl, blend 11/2 tablespoons butter with garlic and mustard. Lightly brush half the mixture over the steaks. Place steaks on grill over medium-hot, ash-covered coals. Cook uncovered 10 to 11 minutes, turning once, until medium-rare or a bit longer for medium. Avoid cooking to well-done stage.
Remove from grill and let rest 5 minutes. While steak is cooking, heat wine in small saucepan over high heat until reduced to about 1/2 cup. Remove from heat and gradually whisk in remaining 1 tablespoon softened butter; consistency should be creamy. Add balsamic vinegar, chopped oregano and chives, salt and pepper and the remaining butter-mustard mixture. Serve with steak.
Garnish with oregano sprigs.

Preparation time: Preparation time: about 20 minutes
Cooking time: Cooking time: 15 minutes

Makes 4 servings.

Quote:

"The Commonsense of Wine"
Andre L. Simon French Wine Writer 1877-1970