This Month's Wines....

Pinot Noir is recognized as one of the world’s greatest red wine grapes. In its native France, Pinot Noir is responsible for all the famous red Burgundy wines such as Pommard, Chambertin, Romanée-Conti, and much of the real Champagne that is produced. These noble wines are deservedly described as spicy, rich and complex with great finesse, elegance and silky texture. Pinot can be quite finicky for the wine grower and wine maker. This necessitates special efforts and skills to coax the best from this aristocratic grape.

In California, the grape has been extensively planted, especially so since the late 1980s. Winemakers there pay close attention to vineyard location (the hilly, cool areas with limestone soils are best). They also incorporate Burgundian winemaking techniques including: adding stems to the tank after crushing, reduced fining and filtering, and the use of wild yeasts for
fermentation. This critical attention to detail has added substantially to the success of California Pinot Noir, much of which is now on a par with their French cousins.

Kilcor Estate 2003 Pinot Noir, Monterey
Total Acid: .62 g/l
Alcohol: 13.0%
Residual Sugar: 0 g/l
Cellaring: 2-3 years

Panel’s Notes: A rich, fruity wine with ripe flavors of black cherry and raspberry. Notes of spice are woven into the red fruit aromas. The wine is soft and round with a lingering finish.

Winery Background: The Loma Vista Vineyard which provided the grapes for this wine is in the Arroyo Seco region of Monterey County.

Food: Great with beef, grilled salmon and aged goat cheeses.

Marobella 2000 Pinot Noir, Monterey
Total Acid: .55 g/l
Alcohol: 13.5%
Residual Sugar: .015 g/l
Cellaring: 1-2 years

Panel’s Notes: Marobella Pinot Noir is a softly fruity-style wine that is highlighted by aromas and flavors of dark plum and light oak spices from barrel aging.

Winery Background: This wine is produced from grapes grown in three small vineyards in southern Monterey. Each vineyard lot is fermented separately and then blended for aging in small French oak barrels.

Food: Terrific with grilled salmon steaks, also try with rare roast beef and rich mascarpone cheese.

Camille Stagg is a food, wine and travel journalist and author. Her latest book is "The Eclectic Gourmet Guide to Chicago" (Menasha Ridge Press). She was food editor of both the Chicago Sun-Times and Cuisine magazine.

Grilled Crispy Skin Salmon

Ingredients

1 salmon fillet (2 lbs), skin on
1/4 cup light-flavored olive oil, divided
2 cloves garlic, crushed
1 tbsp minced fresh coriander
1 green onion, thinly sliced
2 tsp rice wine vinegar
1 tsp Oriental sesame oil
4 cups mixed baby lettuce leaves or
mesclun, rinsed and dried
2 tbsp fresh lime juice
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to
taste

Preparation

Remove pin bones that run down center of salmon fillet. Rinse salmon fillets; pat dry. Heat 11/2 tablespoons of the oil in a medium skillet over medium heat; when hot, add garlic and sauté until slightly golden. Reduce heat, add coriander and green onion, stirring until slightly wilted. Stir in vinegar and sesame oil. Remove from heat.

Place lettuces in medium bowl and toss with warm vinegar-sesame oil mixture. Meanwhile, preheat grill with a cover. With sharp knife, score salmon skin on diagonal. Brush salmon with remaining
21/2 tablespoons olive oil. When coals are hot, place salmon, skin-side-down, on hot grill. Cover and cook 6 to 8 minutes. Check interior flesh by cutting a small gash with sharp knife; it should be mostly opaque and more pink in center. Season fish with salt and pepper and serve over dressed salad greens.

• Makes 4 to 5 servings •

Quote:

Michelangelo
Italian painter, sculptor, and poet (1475 - 1564)