This Month's Featured Wines....

Pinot Noir is recognized as one of the world’s finest red wine grapes. In its native France,

Pinot Noir is responsible for all the famous red Burgundy wines such as Pommard, Chambertin, Romanée-Conti, and as a major grape in the Champagne region. These noble wines are deservedly described as spicy, rich and complex with great finesse, elegance and silky texture.

Pinot can be quite difficult, however, for the wine grower and the wine maker. This necessitates special efforts and skills to coax the best from this aristocratic grape. In California, Pinot Noir has been extensively planted, especially so since the late 1980s. Winemakers there pay close attention to vineyard location (the hilly, cool areas with porous soils are best). They also incorporate Burgundian winemaking techniques including: adding stems to the tank after crushing, reduced fining and filtering, and the use of wild yeasts for fermentation. This critical attention to detail has added substantially to the success of California Pinot Noir, much of which is now on a par with their French cousins.

As a red wine, it goes perfectly well with meats with some degree of fattiness—especially with a twist of pepper or slightly bitter vegetables on the side. Because it is very soft and tender, it is an easy-drinking red wine which goes just as well with white meats like grilled fish, veal, pork and chicken with just a little added spice.

Redmond Ranch 2004 Pinot Noir, Monterey
Total Acid: .70 g/l
Alcohol: 13.5%
Residual Sugar: 0 g/l
Cellaring: 2-3 years

Panel's Notes: Redmond Ranch is deeply colored with intense aromas of black cherry and plum. A delicate, spicy note is woven through ripe red fruit flavors. A velvety-textured wine.

Winery Background: After hand harvesting, individual lots were fermented in stainless steel and then aged in French oak barrels before blending in the “Burgundian style”.

Food: Try roast chicken, beef or a Portobello mushroom burger. Cheeses like ripe Epoisses are good.

Lockridge Cellars 2003 Pinot Noir, Monterey
Total Acid: .62 g/l
Alcohol: 13.0%
Residual Sugar: 0.0 g/l
Cellaring: 2 years

Panel's Notes: Very dark in color with aromas and flavors of bright cherry and raspberry. The concentrated flavors are carried through a lengthy finish by a supple texture and ripe tannin structure.

Winery Background: The vineyards are within 10 miles of the coast and benefit from very cool growing conditions. This gives the wine its lush, silky texture and ripe fruit flavors.

Food: Perfect with grilled wild salmon and rare tuna steaks. Try with a French Chaource cheese.

Other recommended wines this month:

• Mederaño 2003 Vino Blanco – Spain
• Viento Sur 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon – Argentina

• Villa Fortuna 2003 Chianti DOCG, Italy
• Michael Schneider 2004 Bernkastel Riesling, Germany

• Lambert Bridge 2002 Chardonnay, Sonoma
• Ilona 2000 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley

Food Recipe to accompany Pinot Noir

Filet Mignon au Poivre with Roast Beet and Goat Cheese Salad
Courtesy of Lambert Bridge Winery and Chef Shelby Kolpin

4-8 oz filet mignons
salt and pepper
1/4 cup Pinot Noir
1 1/2 cup beef stock
4 tbsp green peppercorns in brine, drained
1/4 cup heavy cream

Season the beef liberally with salt and pepper. Heat a sauté pan until smoking hot. Add beef and cook, just searing the edges, about 4-6 minutes per side. Remove from the pan and set aside, keeping the sauté pan hot. Deglaze pan with wine. Stir in beef stock and reduce by half over medium heat. Add cream and peppercorns, stirring to thicken and combine. Set aside or keep warm until ready to serve. Serve with garlic mashed potatoes and steamed green beans.

Arugula, Goat Cheese, Beet Salad
3 cups baby arugula
8 oz goat cheese
2 lb small beets, assorted colors, 3-4 per person
Red Wine Vinaigrette

Preheat oven to 400°. Wrap each variety of beet in its own aluminum foil packet. Place on the middle rack of oven. Roast for 45 minutes to one hour. Let cool, peel and quarter the beets. Keep beets separate so they retain their color. Wash arugula and spin dry. Place arugula in a large bowl, keep in the refrigerator until you are ready to serve. Toss arugula with just enough dressing to lightly coat. Arrange on four plates, garnish with quartered beets and crumbled goat cheese. Serve immediately with warm, crusty bread.

Steak and salad can be served on the same plate for a casual light dinner, or served as separate courses in a more formal dinner.

Makes 4 servings.

Shelby Kolpin is the chef for Lambert Bridge Winery in Sonoma County’s Dry Creek Valley by Healdsburg, about 75 miles north of San Francisco.

Quote:

“How great a thing is a single cup of wine! For it makes us tell the story of our whole lives.”

Po Chu–I – Chinese poet 772–846 A.D.