California's Harvest

Each year California's wine grape harvest begins anywhere from mid-August until sometimes as late as November. Why the broad range of time? It all depends on when the grape ripens completely. Ripeness occurs when the grapes reach their proper sugar/acid ratio - this balance will determine the final makeup of the finished wine.

Grapes take about 100 days to ripen in the best possible weather - a rarity in most vineyards. Beginning in June with flowering and continuing through July, August and into September, the grapes will gain about 5 percent (Brix) of sugar a month until they reach the optimum for wines at 22 to 25 Brix.

Of course, if the weather doesn't cooperate, then the schedule will be different. For example, if the average temperature in the vineyard is very high for an extended period of time, then harvest can quickly be moved from September back into August. Extended cold weather can easily push the harvest into October.

Rainfall, or the lack of it, can also have an effect on the harvest. Too much rain just prior to harvest can quickly dilute the grape's juice and the resulting wine will be thin and seem less concentrated. A drought can affect the balance of wines over a much longer period than a quick rainstorm.

California's climate is quite forgiving for the most part. Seldom is there much difficulty with spring frost or hailstorms. This year's harvest is a little behind as the season has been generally cool. Growers have pruned away the smaller clusters to concentrate flavors.

However, weather is the strongest single influence on the timing and quality of the harvest in California's vineyards. The balance of wine is a very delicate situation.

This Month's Wines....

Cabernet Sauvignon
by Sharon Rosenbaum, Senior Wine Buyer

One of the first grapes wine-lovers run across is Cabernet Sauvignon. It's natural, for not only is it a strong factor in France's Bordeaux region, one of the most high-profile wine areas, but across the globe it is the 3rd most widely planted red grape after Grenache and Merlot. It is everywhere. Unlike cool-climate grapes such as Pinot Noir or Gamay or warmth-loving Grenache and Carignane, Cabernet is planted from the coldest reaches of the Loire, northern Italy and even Canada and the Ukraine to hot-house areas like the Central Valley of California, the arid Columbia Valley of Washington and even South Africa (Zimbabwe has about 100 acres!).

Alone, this grape, like all the other thoroughbreds, shows a wealth of flavors strongly dependent upon macroclimate. In the cooler regions, you might sense green bell peppers or green olives while in the hotter climes, more of a black currant fruit character. In Bordeaux, sometimes you pick up tobacco or chalky notes. When blended with Merlot, it can make red wines of great structure and balance as well as complexity.

2000 Moorecroft Cellars Central Coast

The 2000 Moorecroft Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon is a blend of premium cabernet sauvignon grown in Paso Robles and a small amount of Cabernet Franc grapes from Monterey, both vineyards located in the Central Coast appellation of California. Cabernet Franc is blended in to enhance the characteristic fruit flavors of Cabernet Sauvignon and produce a wine that is soft and easy drinking. After fermentation in stainless steel tanks, the wine was aged in oak barrels. The wine offers a deep garnet color with aromas of blackberry, spice and a hint of vanilla. Ripe berry flavors are prominent and supported by silky tannins through a smooth finish. Enjoy with steak or lamb with grilled vegetables. Delicious now and over the next 2-3 years.

2000 Scurtland Hills Central Coast

The 2000 Scurtland Hills Central Coast Cabernet Sauvignon was produced from grapes grown in one of the original vineyards in Monterey County. This is a hillside vineyard which benefits from all day sun along with early morning and evening fog. The 2000 vintage produced small berries and concentrated flavors. This wine is a "fruit-forward" style, bursting with aromas and flavors of cherries, raspberry and blackberry. A touch of smoke, evidence of toasted oak barrel aging, is woven throughout. This is an elegant and refined Cabernet Sauvignon, velvety in mouthfeel and flavorful through a lengthy finish. Wonderful right now, it will continue to reward over the next 3 years. Try with roast chicken, grilled Portobello mushrooms or duck.

Camille Stagg is a food, wine and travel journalist and author. Her latest book is "The Eclectic Gourmet Guide to Chicago" (Menasha Ridge Press). She was food editor of both the Chicago Sun-Times and Cuisine magazine. 

Duck Breasts with Red Wine Sauce

Ingredients

2 boneless duck breasts, 5 to 6 oz. each
Freshly ground nutmeg and black pepper
1 tbsp. + 2 tsp. unsalted butter
2 tsp. honey
3/4 cup chicken stock
1/2 cup dry red wine
1 small onion
1 medium clove garlic, minced
1 Tbsp. minced fresh rosemary or 3/4 tsp. dried, crumbled
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Preparation

When duck is done, remove from the oven and cool for several minutes. Remove duck skin and place breasts on warm serving plates. Spoon the sauce over the duck. This recipe is easily doubled.

Makes 2 servings
Preparation time: about 5 minutes
Cooking time: 15 to 20 minutes

Quote:

Jean Drapeau
Former Mayor of Montreal